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Shrouded in centuries-long mysteries, Iran is unequivocally tempting. It is one of the oldest countries in the world that used to be known by the name Persia since time immemorial. Iran has managed to keep its ethnic variety, amazing culture and fascinating traditions. It is famous for its great architecture and intricate art, historical monuments preserved from different epochs and ancient cities. Iranian cuisine and crafts are well-known beyond the country’s borders.
Iran can boast of unfathomably beautiful pristine nature. Here you can see majestic mountain ranges with snow-capped peaks, volcanoes with healing hot springs, ethereal deserts and long sandy seashores. There are picturesque waterfalls, mysterious caves, centuries-old forests and mango groves in Iran.
Iran is the birthplace of Zoroastrism, which was eventually replaced by Islam after the Arab conquests in the 7th century. Nowadays, the country lives by the laws of Sharia, and tourists are also required to comply with certain rules. Those travellers who respect the peculiarities of the country and are willing to comply with the local rules, will feel comfortable and derive great pleasure from visiting Iran.
Iran - what does the word mean? Where do its roots come from?
The name dates back to times immemorial, when the ancient Indo-Iranians were called "arya". The land inhabited by the ancient Persians was called "Airyanem Vaejah", which translates as "the Aryans’ land" or "the Land of the Aryans". Before 1935, the modern territory of Iran was known throughout the world as Persia. Now its name is Iran or officially - the Islamic Republic of Iran. Tehran is the capital of modern Iran. Its population is 85,582,863 people, as of 2021.
Iran is located in southwestern Asia at the crossroads of the Middle East and Central Asia. It is washed by the Caspian Sea in the north, and the Gulf of Oman and the Persian Gulf in the south. Landwise, its neighbours are Iraq, Turkey, Armenia, and Azerbaijan in the west and Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, and Pakistan in the east. The country shares the Caspian Sea with Russia and Kazakhstan, the Persian Gulf with Iraq, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Bahrain and the UAE, and the Gulf of Oman with Oman.
The country has an area of 1,648,000 sq. km. This roughly compares to the size of five Germanies. There are about 41788 named mountains in Iran. Most of the country is located at an altitude of 900m a.s.l. and above.
Geographically, Iran is mostly occupied by the Inner Iranian Plateau. The average height of the Inner Iranian Plateau is 1,200m. It consists of mountain ranges, rather large plateaus and intermountain basins. The Makran Mountains rise in the south, the Zagros Mountains are in the west, the Elburz (also spelt as Alborz, Albourz, Alburz, or Elburs) Mountain System are found in the north, and the East Iranian Mountains occupy the east of the country.
In Iranian Azerbaijan Provinces - a region in northwestern Iran, it has West and East Azerbaijan ostans - districts - the mountains are less dissected than the Elburz and the Zagros. They are located between the Talysh Mountains and the Kurdistan Mountains, as part of the Armenian Highlands. Rising to a height of 2,130-3,050 m, the mountains in Iranian Azerbaijan quite steeply end at the valley of the Araks (Arax) River flowing along the border with Armenia and Azerbaijan.
The well-known intermountain hollows are the Khoy-Merend Hollow, the Urmia Hollow with a salt lake, and the Karasu River Valley. Here the largest ranges include the Karadag, Sebelan, Mishudag, Bozkush, and Heremdag Ranges.
Desert and semi-desert interior plateaus, the so-called drainless depressions, are enclosed by mountain chains.
Among the characteristic forms of relief there are dry river channels (wadi), as well as sand dunes. Significant areas are occupied by stony deserts (desht) which are devoid of any vegetation. The lowest parts of the plateaus are occupied by temporary and permanent lakes. The most extensive depressions are occupied by the Desht-Lut and Desht-Kevir (Great Salt Desert) deserts. In winter, due to rains and increased precipitation, shallow lakes appear in the deserts.
Mountains separate the plains from the inner-country plateaus. There are narrow coastal plains along the seashores. In the north of the country, there are two more small plains: the steppe strip south of the Araks River and the Gorgan Steppe.
Iran is rich in mineral resources. The country has the world's third-largest reserves of oil and the second-largest deposits of natural gas, large deposits of iron ore, coal, zinc, and manganese.
Arid climate and the mountainous terrain contribute to the fact that there are no major rivers in Iran. There is only one navigable river - the Karoun. Other important but not navigable rivers include the Zayande, the Karhe, and the Dez. Many small rivers and rivulets, which are also quite short, can be found in the north of Iran. Running down from the Elburz, they flow into the Caspian Sea. In central Iran, rivers are full only when the snow melts in the mountains, and then they dry up during the hot season.
The largest lake of the country is Urmia Lake. It is one of the few reservoirs where water remains even in the summer during the hottest periods. However, the lake is so salty that no living organisms are found in it. There are other lakes in Iran: the Lar, Saveh, Bakhtagan, Neyriz, Gawhouni, Parishan, Neor, etc. Freshwater lakes are located in Elburz, north of Tehran.
Apart from droughts, Iran is experiencing groundwater depletion due to over-pumping of water resources. This leads to land subsidence. Massive ground subsidence has been registered in Tehran and is now considered to pose a serious threat to the city. The National Disaster Management Organisation is trying to slow down this process by developing appropriate measures.
The vegetation cover in Iran depends on the precipitation and the moisture content of the area, as well as on the human economic activity, most of all the vegetation is affected by agriculture and cattle grazing.
In the recent past, the central and northern areas of the Zagros Mountains were wrapped with a green blanket of oak forests. Unfortunately, nowadays they have almost vanished due to active indiscriminate deforestation and grazing of goats and sheep. Gradually, the oaks began to be surrounded by shrubs. As you move to the south, where there is even less rainfall, the oaks are replaced by a sparse forest of almond, pistachio and cherry plum (Prunus divaricata or P. cerasifera called alycha).
The slopes of the Elburz Range are the most humidified in the north, and up to a height of 2,500m they are covered with broad-leaved forests with thick crowns. Oak, beech, hornbeam, maple, Persian parrot tree (or ironwood, as it is also called), ash, elm, sycamore, plum, and walnut trees prevail here. The northern slopes of the Elburz Mountains are also covered with trees. There are small forests near Halhal, in Nahar Khoran and in southern Ardabil. The rest of the mountainous areas cannot boast such lush woody vegetation. There the trees are found quite rarely and only in more humid places - along the rivers banks in the valleys between the mountains.
Steppe and semi-desert plants are characteristic of low mountains. The steppes of Iran are filled with wormwood, cereals, and astragalus. Sometimes you can see areas of shrub thickets. Deserts are characterised by camel's thorn, saxaul, tamarix, broom sedge (Aristida), saltwort, and aloe.
Swamp and riparian vegetation predominates in the river valleys. On the coast of the Persian Gulf, you can see mangroves. And the Caspian Sea coast is occasionally inhabited by impenetrable subtropical forests, the trees of which are overgrown with vines.
As for the areas of the inner plateaus, there is almost no vegetation cover due to lack of moisture and high soil salinization. Areas of quicksand are completely barren.
In total, about 2,500 plants have been found in Iran, but only a small number has been studied. Among them are such interesting species as fritillaria imperialis (Fritillaria persica), Iranian saffron (crocus gilanicus) and others.
Fritillaria Imperialis is popularly called the weeping tulip. It is an herbaceous plant that looks like an upside-down tulip. It is called a weeping plant because large droplets of flower sap that look like tears emerge from the base of the bowl.
Saffron in Iran is more than just a plant. It is one of the most important species in the country with high export value. It is sometimes called the "Iranian red gold", 90% of world saffron is grown in Iran. It grows more in tropical regions and can be found in Gilan and Hamedan. Saffron blooms and is harvested in autumn. A large number of its medicinal properties have been known since ancient times. Saffron is one of the most expensive spices. Nowadays, this plant is used mainly in cooking and medicine.
Saffron has a strong peculiar aroma and a bitter spicy taste. Saffron stigmas are used for colouring and flavouring confectionery and meat products in cooking, as well as in the production of cheese, sausages and liqueurs.
As a spice, saffron is used in very small quantities. In the Middle East, Central Asia and Southern Europe, it occupies an important place in the preparation of rice (pilaf, bozbash, paella) and peas (piti). Saffron is added as a spice to clear soups in the preparation of lamb, fish and cauliflower soups, broths. Along with its spicy properties, saffron also has a preservative effect. Food cooked with saffron can be preserved for several days.
Understandably, due to saffron scarcity and high price, there are some substitutes. Instead of saffron, cheaper bright orange spices such as turmeric and safflower are often used. In the markets, a less fastidious customer may be sold safflower, which has a much less pronounced flavour. It is easy to Identify real saffron: just two strands of saffron will stain three litres of water a bright yellow colour. Turmeric is also sometimes passed off as ground saffron, although it has no saffron aroma; its distinguishing feature is a yellowish hue instead of red.
The animal world of Iran is diverse. Ungulates are widespread: Iranian doe, mountain sheep, goitered and common gazelle, ibex, urial, kulan, wild boar, mouflon, and camel. There are also found such predators as cheetah, leopard, wolf, manul and reed cat, jackal, caracal, striped hyena, and mongoose.
In the mountains live polar bear and brown bear, Persian squirrel, porcupine. The Elburz is home to mammal species not found anywhere else - the bighorn sheep (black-bearded and white-bearded). There is also a large number of rodents and birds - grey francolin, ruffed bustard, partridge, Caspian snowcock, grouse, peck, white stork, little bustard, nuthatch, buzzard, grey crane, etc. Birds have come to love the shores of the Caspian Sea, as well as the Persian Gulf. Here, you can see flamingos, sandpipers, pelicans, ducks, geese, marbled murrelets, etc. Many of them spend winter in Iran.
The waters of the Persian Gulf and the Caspian Sea are abundant with valuable species of commercial fish.
The fauna of reptiles is also rich (about 200 species)б you can see marsh crocodiles, found in the floodplain of the Serbaz River in Balochistan and green sea turtles in the waters of the Persian Gulf, etc.
The marsh crocodile (or maghera) is revered and treated with special reverence by the locals in the southeastern regions of Iran. They even help crocodiles get to water during particularly dry periods when rivers are excessively drained, leaving these reptiles without water. The Iranians call them "gandu."
By the standards of crocodiles, the size of Iranian marsh crocodiles is average. Males reach 3.5m in length, females are usually 2.45 m. They move on land at a speed of up to 12 km/h, whereas in the water, they can develop the speed of about 30 - 40 km/h. Unfortunately, the composition of water in Iranian water bodies deteriorates every year, primarily due to human activities. With the concentration of pesticides and herbicides in water increasing, the population of marsh crocodiles is getting smaller every year. In order to conserve this species of reptile in Iran, there are even courses for locals to teach them how to take care of marsh crocodiles and how to deal with them properly.
Most of the country has a tropical desert climate. Dryness, heat, and sharp fluctuations in temperature are typical. A subtropical continental climate prevails only in the northern part of the country, along the coast of the Caspian Sea. The entire territory of Iran, except for the Caspian coast and the coastal lowlands in the south, is characterised by harsh winters. Only the highlands of the Zagros and the Caspian Sea coast receive sufficient precipitation. Precipitation in the country mainly falls between November and April, and is virtually absent during the warm season.
The country is located in several climatic zones:
The most popular tourist attractions are concentrated on the route from Tehran towards Shiraz, following through Isfahan, Yazd, Pasargadae, as well as Persepolis. If you wish, you can fly into the country at the airport of Tehran, and fly out of Shiraz airport, so as not to make the return journey of 900 km.
In a country whose centre is covered with two vast deserts including the hottest spot on earth (70 degrees Celsius in Dasht-e Lut), the last thing you’d expect to see is a ski resort. But much to your amazement, you will find not just one but more than 20 ski resorts in Iran. You can choose a track for every taste and level of fitness, so Iran is interesting for beginners and advanced skiers, as well as freeriders. There is also a type of skiing called heliskiing or heliski, when you are delivered to a summit by a helicopter and can descend on pristine mountain slopes. Several ski resorts are located in the Elburz Mountains near the capital of Iran. Two of the most popular of these are Dizin and Shemshak.
Kish island has several diving centres. Here you can rent equipment and hire an experienced instructor. Near the island washed by the waters of the Persian Gulf, there are wonderful coral reefs with a variety of inhabitants: angel fish, groupers, snappers, spinoffs, butterfly fish, barracudas, stingrays, turtles, morays, reef sharks, hammerhead sharks, and whale sharks. Hendorabi Island, which is surrounded on all sides by coral reefs, will be of interest as well. Along Hendorabi Island coastline are steady currents, which allows you to do drift diving here.
The Iranian mountains have been worshipped and considered as special sacred places for centuries. Even before Islam (in the time of Zoroastrism) many mountain peaks were considered the centres of the whole world and the dwelling place of deities as well as ancestors. Mountains were a source of water, a symbol of life and prosperity. Even today, some mountain valleys are inhabited by nomadic peoples whose life is very similar to that of their ancestors. Visiting such regions, you feel as if you have travelled back in time.
Nowadays, it is banned to worship the mountains according to Islam law.
The Elburz Mountain System majestically spreads its peaks and highlands in the north of the country, near the southern coast of the Caspian Sea. The name is also spelt as Alborz, Albourz, Alburz, or Elburs. The Elburz mountain range is divided into the Western, Central, and Eastern Alborz Mountains. The Western Alborz Range (usually called the Talysh, Talesh, or Tavalesh Range or the Bogrov Dagh) runs south-southeastward almost along the western coast of the Caspian Sea. The Central Alborz (the Alborz Mountains in the strictest sense) runs from west to east along the entire southern coast of the Caspian Sea, while the Eastern Alborz Range runs in a northeasterly direction, toward the northern parts of the Khorasan region, southeast of the Caspian Sea. The Elburz Range in its central stretch includes Iran’s two highest peaks, Mount Damavand and Mount Alam. The Elburz mountain system traverses virtually all of the northernmost portions of Iran from east to west.
The word Elburz is translated from Persian as ‘a high mountain’. The outlines of Elburz have the shape of the Latin letter S, curving its ridges like a snake. By the way, some legends about the Elburz mountain range are associated with snakes. The length of the range is about 900 km. The highest point not only of Iran, but also of the entire north east is Demavend or Damavand Volcano (5,610m or 5,671m).
Other significant peaks are Alam-Kuh (4,848 m), Shah-Neshin (3,875 m), Tochal (3,964 m), Lavarak (3,560 m), Lezon-West (3,585 m), Bazarak (3,753 m), and Sar Bazarak (3,640 m).
With a lattice structure with numerous ridges, the Zagros Range extends in the western part of Iran, near the city of Chalgard. It is the biggest mountain range in Iran. The Zagros Range is located on the territory of modern Iran, partially in Iraq and southeastern Turkey. More specifically, Zagros is located in the southwestern Iranian highlands. It passes through the province of Kurdistan. The highest peak is Mount Zard-e-Kuh (4,547 m).
The Zargos Range enjoys quite high seismic activity; the earthquake in Ashgabat in 1948 confirms the high seismic hazard of the area.
One of the rarest animals on our planet lives here. It is called the Zagrosian newt. It is easy to overlook this newt because its body length is only 13 centimetres. The Zagrosian newt lives exclusively in the mountains, seeking shelter at heights of over 1,500m.
The Zagros Range is famous for its salt domes that form entire glaciers. During the formation of the salt dome, the glacier is fed, these natural objects are literally filled with salt. In the Zagros, there are domes which are totally made of rock salt. It is noteworthy that glaciers are impregnated not only with salt, but also with oil, so they have a characteristic black colour.
One of the most famous mountains in the Zagros Range is Mount Derak aka Deraak, Derok (2,900m) located 20 km north-west of Shiraz. It also has other names: Kuh-e-Barfi and Mother Mountain. It is called Mother because of its appearance - from the side it resembles a lying pregnant woman. It is called Barfi because in the cold season it is covered by a snow cap (barf means snow in Persian). It is a rocky mountain and is used as a location for TV and radio turrets. There are several trails here, both for climbing and hiking.
Mount Shir-Kuh (4,075m) in the Zargos Range is located 40 km southwest of Yazd in the central part of the country, it towers majestically above the surrounding deserts. Shirkuh in Persian is formed of two words: Shir meaning milk as well as lion, and kuh or kooh meaning mountain. There are two reasons behind the etymology. The first says that most of the year this mountain is covered with snow, giving it a white colour like milk; whereas the second argument refers to the resemblance of the mountain to a lion sleeping on its paws, creating the image that in the past there actually had been a lion with a big white mane and now this magic creature is in its hibernation. To see this glorious mountain, people go to a summer village with nice weather, Deh Bala, which is always green and cool. In spite of the harsh cold weather in winter, the kind and tolerant people of Deh Bala have never left this lion alone.
The Makran (Mekran) Range is a 200km-wide folded mountain system in southern Iran, extending 480 km to the east. Farther on in the territory of Pakistan, the Makran Range changes the direction to the northeast. Some peaks rise to a height of 1,800m to 2,150m. The highest point is Mount Kukhran (2,260 m). The relief of the mountains is highly dissected.
The East Iranian Mountains run for 1,050km along the eastern border of Iran, between the Elburz and the Makran. They are lower than the Zagros Mountains, but form an atmospheric barrier on the way from Iran to Afghanistan. The average height of the mountains is 1,500m. The highest point is Taftan Volcano or Kuh-e Taftan (3,940m or 4,042m). On the mountain itselfб there are no signs of life, not even bacteria.
One of the most amazing natural phenomena of Iran is the Aladaglar Mountains. They are located in Mahan Shan and Zanjan (Zanjan) Provinces. You can see the rocks and hills of different colours: yellow, green, red, white and brown, rising from the ground. Sometimes the Aladaglar Mountains are called ‘the colourful mountains’. Each colour indicates the presence of the corresponding mineral. For example, red means that the mountain contains iron, whereas green indicates the presence of copper. According to scientists, the birth date of these picturesque mountains go back 15 million years ago. The people who live among the beauty of these mountains have developed some particular traditions. For example, for the holiday of Nowruz, it is customary to decorate homes with coloured soils of different shades. A walk through these fabulous places will fill you with unforgettable impressions.
Tash-Kuh is often called the blazing mountain because it is literally burning day and night. The mountain is one of the wonders of Iran. It is located in the southwest of the country, in Khuzerstan Province, 6 km from the village of Mamatin. According to geologists, the soil contains a large amount of sulphur and when gas rises from the bowels of the earth it causes the gas to ignite. Therefore, when it breaks through the surface, you can see the plumes of fire.
The mountain looks even more spectacular at night, which is when many tourists gather here.
Another interesting fact is because of the gases coming out of the mountain near Tash-Kuh, you cannot make a fire here.
Iran is located at the junction of two lithospheric plates, the movement of which periodically leads to earthquakes. The most popular extinct volcanoes are located in the northern part of the country:
These volcanoes are great places for hiking and mountain climbing. In addition, their slopes are studded with healing hot springs, beautiful lakes and waterfalls, as well as forests with a variety of wildlife. The most popular hot springs are on the northern slope of Sahand Volcano, near the village of Kandovan (particularly useful for treating kidney diseases), and springs on the slopes of Sebelan Volcano, near Sarein village (contains large amounts of sulphur compounds, most useful for bone and joint pains).
This ancient sacred mountain is now a symbol of the beauty of the Iranian mountains and the most majestic peak of the country. The word Demavend or Damavand is translated from Ancient Persian as ‘smoking’. There are many legends and poems about the mountain. According to one legend, deep in Damavand is an evil spirit called Bivarasb the monster with two snakes instead of a head. And as long as the lake located in the crater of Damavand is covered with ice, this monster will continue to be in a sleeping state and its sleep will not be disturbed.
The mountain is frequently mentioned in both ancient and modern literature. It is much praised as a symbol of valour and resilience. Its symmetrical cone can be compared to such mountain peaks as Fuji (3,770m) in Japan or Ararat (5,000m) in Armenia. It is assumed that the now extinct Damavand volcano died about 100 thousand years ago. At an altitude of about 4,000 m, huge blocks and small pieces of sulphur are often found. On the funnel-shaped top there is a lake 30 metres deep, the surface of the lake is covered with ice for most of the year. Although the volcano is considered extinct, there are sources of hot gases around its crater. Therefore, you can often see puffs of thick steam. These vapours have different chemical compositions, most of them are dangerous to humans.
Should you wish to conquer Damavand, there are a large number of routes. Four are the main ones: south, north, west and east. It should be borne in mind that the springs on Damavand (usually found at about 3,500m) have sulphur in their composition. Therefore, climbers usually do not use the springs, but rather gather snow and ice at the foot of the volcano to have some fresh water. There are many glaciers on the northern as well as the northeastern side of the volcano at about 4,000m. The northeast side, also called the ‘snowy roof’, presents many challenges for climbers when traversing glacial gorges and is only accessible to professionals with extensive experience. On the southern side, there is less snow and glaciers, so it is easier to climb. From the end of April to the beginning of May, there are frequent avalanches, so it is better to refrain from climbing this majestic mountain at this time.
The dormant stratovolcano Alam-Kuh, as well as Damavand volcano, is one of the peaks of the Elburz Range. It is located in the southern part of Mazenderan Province. It is adorned by many glaciers and mountain lakes. The southern side is suitable for hiking. The northern side is a steep slope in the form of a wall reaching the height of 650 - 800m. It is one of the most interesting and technically difficult climbing routes not only in Iran. Climbing teams from Europe train on the north side. The period from mid-July to mid-August is the best time to conquer Alam-Kuh peak.
There are also active volcanoes in Iran. The active stratovolcano Taftan is located in southeastern Iran, near the provinces of Balochistan and Sistan (the nearest city is Khash). It has two peaks - Materkuh and Narkuh. Currently, the volcano has a strong fumarolic activity, you can see the gases and vapours oozing actively from the cracks (fumaroles) from several kilometres away.
Taftan and Bazman volcanoes in Iran, as well as Ko-i-Sultan volcano in Pakistan, are part of the same volcanic arc.
Qeshm is an arrow-shaped island in the Strait of Hormuz, separated from the mainland by the Khuran / Clarence Strait in the Persian Gulf. It is the largest island of Iran and the entire Persian Gulf. Qeshm Island is a wonderful place, it is called the Valley of the Stars. It is a mountainous plateau with many rocks of the most bizarre shapes. This place gets its name from a legend, according to which it arose as a result of the fall of meteorites. Qeshm Island has a Geopark (nature reserve), which is pro
